Mount Pulag: Overview (Part 1 of 3)

It was about half an hour past five, the 24th of November. I could not recall a place I've been to before, whose beauty could compare with what was in front of me. The sun was about to set, but not on the usual horizon. I was surrounded by a sea of clouds, and the sun, a quaint orange ball - as tired and as weary as we were - slowly hid itself behind the sea of clouds. There are no words, everything was indescribable. I have instantly forgotten how treacherous our journey was just to get here. Our pilgrimage has commenced to the closest I've ever been to what it's like to be in heaven. I was at the very summit of Mount Pulag.

See Part 2 of 3: Mt. Pulag: Ascent via Akiki
See Part 3 of 3: Mt. Pulag: Descent via Ambangeg

When Ron created the event in facebook, I immediately hit Google to find out more about Mount Pulag. The pictures were so enchanting that I ended up not reading much of the blog entries. I just stared at the pictures - the surreal landscapes reminiscent of the Alps sans the snow, the dreamy sea of clouds. I got captivated right away, and I thought, there's no way I'm going to miss this trip. I immediately hit the "attend" button, thinking that the trip will be a walk in a park leading to paradise.

The following week we met a group of hikers in Mount Maculot who told of their group's failed attempt to scale Luzon's highest. They didn't make it to the summit. The cold, they recalled, was unbearable they considered it wiser to abandon the trip. Then on our hike to Mount Batulao the following week, I met Sir Frank, who have also been to Pulag and who shared how he had worn every single clothing he brought and still felt the cold, and how he and his fellow hikers would place their hands against the steam of the rice they were cooking and felt not a hint of heat. I also learned that they took the Amba trail, the so-called "executive trail". I knew that we were about to take the Akiki-Amba trail, but it was only later that I learned that Akiki is also known as the "killer trail", notorious for its steep slopes and its distance of its jump off point from the summit. Almost every blogger wrote about the extreme weather, including this guy, who wrote, "I woke up in the middle of the night shivering from the cold. I could see my feet covered with my gray socks, but I could not feel it, but it's shaking like a live turd out of water. I ask myself what I am doing here, as thoughts of sleeping soundly on my warm bed at home buzzed my head." Thankfully - or rather, for fear of dying because of hypothermia - I came to Pulag more than prepared for the elements (see the tips below on how to do the Layering Technique) after doing plenty of research.

Tips

1. It was a good idea that we had a pre-climb two weeks before scaling Mount Pulag to somehow gauge of chances of survival. Our 12-hour trek in Mount Tapulao taught me how to be patient. Your group might arrange a similar pre-climb event as well.

2. Clothing is one of the major considerations for anyone who want to go to Mount Pulag. Since I have very low tolerance for the cold, I gave a lot of attention to the clothes that I will be bringing. The key is to do the "layering technique" properly, which is not as simple as wearing as many layers of clothes as one brought. Mt. Pulag isn't a mountain to be underestimated. I've read from somewhere that "packing wisely" is better than "packing lightly." I decided to stick to the former rule, so I'd have less to regret later. After surviving Pulag's 10 C weather, I feel like I'm in the position to share how to dress properly in Pulag. I didn't shiver a bit and have been comfy all though out despite the fact that I have very tolerance for the cold.

I wore a dry fit shirt made of synthetic fiber as my first layer. Unlike cotton, synthetic fibers dry more quickly and wicks sweat away from the skin. For my outer shell I wore a light jacket with a wind-breaking effect. This should reduce the chilling effect of the wind. As the temperatures dropped, I simply removed my outer shell and added another layer on top of my first layer. My second layer was a fleece jacket, while my third layer was a thick down jacket with fleece lining, both of which I got from an ukay shop in Munoz for only P100 and P75, respectively. Additional staples are socks and bonnets. I also brought a comfy sleeping bag that I got from Ace Hardware for P500.

Rain is everyone's enemy when it comes to hiking in the highlands. We were lucky to have been blessed with a perfect weather throughout the climb - not even a slight drizzle, but I brought a poncho and an umbrella, just in case. I borrowed Ian's 85L Conquer backpack. My back and shoulders didn't hurt a bit - must be something with the way this bag was designed. As you will be carrying a heavy load for hours, a good backpack is also something to be considered. The fakes ones may give you a sore shoulder after a long hike.

3. It is not necessary to bring all the water that you will need for the whole trip. It is enough to bring only a liter of water at the Akiki Ranger Station, and fill your containers on the water sources that you will encounter along the way. You might consider three liters worth of containers, and fill up everything when you reach the last water source as there are no water sources near the Saddle Camp.

4. Prepare ID's, badges or anything that you can leave at DENR.

5. There is a store that sells jackets, bonnets, warmers and other ukay gears near DENR. The cheapest jackets are only P10 pesos.

6. Before leaving, you might consider giving your unopened canned goods or any item you may no longer need to your guide to lighten your backpack. This would mean a lot for them.

7. The Pulag experience would not complete without taking a (very cold) bath at the Amba Ranger station. Do not be ashamed to scream and curse as you bathe.

8. Try riding the jeepney "topload" if it's not too hot. Beyond the DENR office however, the roads are too dusty you might want to stay inside.

9. Talk about extremes, the weather in the trail is too hot at noon and too cold at night. Be prepared for both.

ITINERARY

Here's a more accurate vertical profile of the Akiki Trail from Mustachio Adventures:

A more detailed itinerary:

Day 0
22:00 Left Victory Liner Pasay

Day 1
04:50 Arrived in Baguio, took chartered jeep to DENR
05:30 Breakfast at a carinderia in Benguet
06:30 Resumed travel, topload this time
07:30 Arrived at DENR, took seminar, registered, paid fees
08:00 Resumed travel
11:00 Arrived at Akiki Jump off
12:38 Arrived at First Campsite
14:00 Reached Eddet River, filled water containers
17:00 Reached Emergency Campsite aka Helipad, pitched tents, dinner

Day 2
07:30 Started trek after finishing breakfast
09:00 Reached Marlboro Campsite, went woowoo, filled water containers
10:00 Arrived at the Mossy Forest
10:45 Reached third water source
12:00 Left Mossy Forest, reached grasslands
13:00 Saddle Camp at last!
16:00 To summit for sunset viewing
18:00 Went back to camp, dinner, socials

Day 3
04:30 To summit for sunrive viewing
06:00 Back to campsite, breakfast, packed up
09:00 Left campsite
11:30 Reached Ambangeg Ranger station
14:00 DENR to log off
17:00 Arrived at Baguio City, back to Manila

EXPENSES
Bus fare Victory Liner Pasay to Victory Liner Baguio P455 /pax (only P356 for student fare FTW!)
Jeepney Rental (includes trip from Baguio to Akiki Jump Off and Amba Jump Off to Baguio) P9000
Green Fee P 350
Entrance and Camping Fee P200/pax
Food P230/pax (That's how cheap our meals were!)
Guide fee P1800

Team Pulag consists of (from left) JB, John, Gen, Ron,
Me and Allan. (Oscar is on other pics.)

Photo credits: Ron Hubsch, Genesis Quilantang, Allan Espano, JB Galledo and John Sotto.